July Self-Care Challenge

Hola Queens,

I created a 31 day Plan & decided to share it with you so we can all healthier and happier. The challenge is for the whole month of July, and I would love for you to tag me on instagram @thelenalogy when completing the daily tasks.

You can follow this whenever and start whenever you want, or you could add certain thing to your daily list. The main point of this if for you to be in a better place mentally, physically and obvs have a better skin and healthier hair.

I’ll be posting a few checks back in with you guys. Lets grow and see the improvement by the end of the month.

Do not forget to @ me on instagram and lets stay connected sis !!

How to Pre-poo

Holaa Queens

By now we all know what Pre-poo is, but how do you incorporate it into your wash day? How do I create it and what am I supposed to do? Don’t worry, I got you covered sis .

How to Pre-Poo

You will start with dry hair, and you will separate your hair into 4-8 parts – I have thick hair and the front part of my hair has to be divided into 2 ( adjust the parting to your hair thickness & whats manageable to you). Going section by section you will apply your Pre-poo concoctions to your hair and use a wide tooth comb or your fingers to detangle & you going to make sure its well coated and twist that section of your hair.

You can leave the mixture for as long as you would like, but I recommend minimum 30 minutes to allow the nutrients to penetrate through the hair shaft. I also recommend using a plastic cap to trap the moisture in or use a hooded dryer.

Ways to Pre-Poo

Overnight

Easily the best way to Pre-poo is overnight as it allows the hair to thoroughly absorb the nutrients and active properties of the conditioning method.

You can apply the mixture to the hair and twist, braid or bantu knot the hair to retain the moisture and keep hair from matting up, and put a plastic cap and tie it down with a scarf to ensure the plastic cap does not come out during sleep.

If you choose to do an Oil Pre-poo, I highly recommend using a plastic bag as you can tie it down to ensure it wont come out at night – the last thing you want is your your pillowcase and pillow to get stained ( I’ve been there too many times)

Hooded Dryer

This is the fastest way to ensure your hair is absorbing all the nutrients in a short amount of time, you really only need 15-30 minutes. Heat allows the hair shaft to open up for easy penetration, improved moisture retention, it improves elasticity which reduces breakage and leaves hair extra smooth.

I recommend this for low porosity as heat allows the cuticle layers to open and lift and ensure the strands are nourished from within

Plastic Cap/plastic bag

This is the most practical way as it just requires a plastic cap. If you do not like overnight mask then I recommend doing this in the morning, to allow time for the Pre-poo to penetrate the hair.

Do not think that you have to sit there whilst Pre-Pooing, you could still get things done sis. Jazz up your look by wearing a turban/ head wrap on top of the plastic cap and running your errands – nobody will notice you have a plastic cap underneath & you will receive many compliments and looks. Yesss, Slay sis !

I recommend going on a walk, or even the gym or just working out at home as it will make your blood flow to the head and it will make your scalp increase temperature for faster absorption

I hope this post has helped you understand how you can Pre-Poo and make the most out of it. Please try a Pre-poo method, as it will change your life and you will never look back.

Have a good week Queen

What is Pre-poo?

Hey Queens,

Does shampoo make your hair dry and rough? Do you have to use a lot more conditioner to soften and detangle your hair from the harsh shampoo? Well, meet Pre-poo. Pre-poo will save your strands, save your coin, will save you time, will save water – It’s the best thing since sliced bread !

What is Pre-Poo?

Pre-poo is a conditioning treatment before your shampoo, hence the name comes from Pre-Shampoo. Shampoo’s are harsh and even moisturising shampoo can strip moisture and natural oils leaving the hair in its most vulnerable state, if you do not use a good conditioner/deep conditioner it may lead your hair to breakage, shedding and dry/ brittle hair. If your hair is naturally dry and brittle I recommend doing Pre-Poo every time you wash your hair.

Pre-poo acts like a protective layer by moisturising the hair before the shampoo, it allows the shampoo to cleanse the hair but it does not leave the hair weak and vulnerable.

What is the benefits of Pre-Poo?

Moisture Retention

Curls and Kinks need to stay moisturised, specially if you have High Porosity Hair or Thick/Coarse hair. Pre-poo adds extra moisture to the locks ensuring their stay moisturised through the whole wash day process. Pre-poo can also restore lost moisture during the week or due to damage such as bleaching, dye or heat.

Easy Detangle

By Applying Pre-Poo, it will allow your strands to soften making it easier to detangle. I find it easier to detangle as I am applying the Pre-poo as my hair is softer and causes less breakage as opposed to detangling after shampoo when your hair is sensitive and prone to tangles and knots.

Softer & Healthier Strands

Since I started Pre-poo, my 4C, thick, high porosity hair has been softer than ever. My hair has been looking the healthiest ever. There’s a natural shine with my hair, my hair is retaining moisture much better and I find myself not needing to moisture as much during the week. My scalp used to be flaky after a few days of washing and after Pre-pooing 3 times I have not experienced flaky scalp.

I have noticed that my dyed brown ends have been more vibrant not as opposed to a month ago where they were dull and my ends were very dry.

Boosts the Conditioner

Do you finish your conditioner faster than your shampoo? By Pre-pooing, your has already been detangled and moisturised therefore you would not need to use as much conditioner as you usually do. I usually wash my hair in twists and that really helps the moisture to stay in. Let’s be real, a good conditioner is ££ and if I can save that coin sis, I will.

Also, often times we use the conditioner as we want to retain all the benefits, pre-pooing actually helps boost the effectiveness of the conditioner your using leaving your strands even softer and stronger than before.

Saving Time & Water

We keep it real in this blog, I used to spend almost 2 hours getting through all sections of my hair, and the water bill would add up sis, by Pre-Pooing, I spend about 20 minutes washing my hair resulting in wasting less water and having more time to spend doing whatever you’d like.

How did you find this post?

Next post I’ll be talking about different methods of Pre-poo and my Ultimate Pre-poo process that never fails me.

See you soon Queens ❤ !

Is having a hair schedule/regimen important?

Hey Queens,

As I was preparing my wash day, I realised how much more healthier my hair is, compared to 2 months ago. And as much as I would like to say that before I was not taking care of my hair that would be a lie. I was taking care of my hair, but I did not have a regimen, I had a routine, it was the same every wash day. And that is not an effective regimen.

Why not you ask?

Well, your hair needs hydration, nutrition, protein, and you need to do these mask at least once every 4-6 weeks depending of what your hair needs and if you hair is damaged. I was not doing that, I was using the same deep hydration mask – every week. The mask worked for me, and as my hair was dry, I instantly assumed thats all my hair needs. You need to have a balance of hydration, nutrition and protein in your regimen. For me it means that when I am scheduling my week I am also adding which deep treatment I am doing that week so I am not overloading my hair with just one type of treatment

You might think that a “Hair Regimen” is overhyped by hairdressers and naturalistas. You might think that it is too much work and time consuming. I used to think that, and chances are you already spend time doing your hair, why not invest it into achieving your hair goals. I guarantee you the time you will spend wont be as much as you making it in your head. Not having an effective hair regimen, only hurts you.

Why is a hair regimen necessary?

Yes, it’s imperative to have a hair regimen. Here are 5 reasons why its a must.

  1. Your hair will thrive – your hair will be shinier, moisturised and stronger.
  2. You will be your own hair goals – you’ll have healthier longer hair
  3. Its more cost effective – when your hair is damaged, you are always trying new products and overspending on products you don’t need.
  4. Confidence Boost – you’ll find yourself checking your hair out at anything that reflects. You will want to rock your natural hair and ditch the wigs and hair extensions.
  5. Timesaving – creating a schedule will lead to being more organised. Before it would take me 2 hours to wash my hair, but now it only takes me 30 minutes to wash my hair + my wash days would be 2 days long as opposed to 1 day now. Leaving time to do things I enjoy.
  6. Self-Care Queen – when you start seeing results, it will motivate you to have effective regimen when it comes to your skin, your body or even a diet.

Do you have a hair regimen? If so what is a must for your regimen?

Thanks for reading & continue to rock your natural hair.

IS HAIR TYPE IMPORTANT ?

Heyy Queens,

Often times when I speak to someone about natural hair or I get questions, people are either confused about their hair type or the only thing they know about their hair is what type it is. . This post will help you find out your hair type and all you need to know about achieving your hair goals once and for all.

What is Hair Type?

Hair Type is a system where you can identify your curl type, its based on the diameter and tightness of the curl. It was created by Andre Walker known to be Oprah’s hairdresser, made to be easier to identify the curl pattern and how it behaves when it comes to styles, and products. Personally I think its a easier way to speak explain what curl pattern you have, specially if you have more than one curl type, by using the Hair type system ” I have 4C in the middle, and 4A in the back and 4B in the front and sides ” rather than ” its tight kinky curls in the middle, kinky curls with a little frizz in the back, and frizzy zigzag coils in the front and sides” although you can understand it, its harder to visualise it.

Andre Walker Hair Typing System
LOIS Hair Typing System

There are 3 curly hair types which are 2(wavy), 3(curly) and 4(coil/kinky). Under those categories, there are sub-categories which range from A to C which refer to how tight the curls pattern is – A being looser than C.

I prefer the LOIS Hair Types which came after the Andre Walker Hair Typing Chart and focuses on curly hair types making it easier identify curl types by also volume and frizz.

Is knowing your hair type important?

Important? No! The Purpose of hair typing is to make it easier to identify products and methods that would work for the hair in order to make it easier for each category to achieve their hair goals – but its not its true reflection. However, it does make it easier in conversation and when speaking about the curl type. Although it is good to know your curl pattern, it doesn’t tell you much other than what it actually is, the type of curl you have.

What is Important ?

Hair type tells you nothing about how to manage your hair, if you want to know such information I recommend you to learning about Hair Structure, Density and Most importantly Hair Porosity. These will ultimately tell you what exactly works for you hair and what to stay away from.

Bottom Line

The journey to effective communicating with your hair, and knowing what it needs its not easy at all. Too many people focus on hair type and still struggle with their hair, because how porous your hair is has nothing to do with hair type but it will tell you what products work for your hair.

You want healthier, longer hair with beautiful bouncy, defined curls or a lot of volume on your hair, learning about Porosity and Structure will lead you to products but even then you will still have to experiment with products and methods to find those that work the best for your hair. It is a tedious task but don’t give up. and sort to easier ways. It took me long to know what my hair needed and the products it likes, but I figured it out and so can you.

If you need any help, you can contact me on instagram @thelenalogy and I can help you with your hair dilemmas.

Beginners Guide To Hair Porosity

Porosity

Porosity is your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. I never understood porosity as all the tests left me as confused as I started. I see it being discussed more often than before and it’s important to know how porous your hair is as it can help knowing methods that would work for your hair and what kind of products you should be using on your hair.

 There are 3 types of porosity low, medium and high.

Low Porosity means your hair does not absorb moisture easily, and the cuticle of the hair closes faster. This because the cuticle lays flat causing it to block any moisture from being absorbed. Products just end up sitting on top of the hair and creating build-up.

I recommend when washing the hair do not use cold water as it will close the cuticle, instead rinse with hot water and apply products while the hair is still damp to ensure the hair can absorb it.

Medium Porosity means the hair is well-balanced and the pores operated “normally”, it’s the ideal porosity type as its not in either end of the spectrum. It takes the correct amount of moisture. It does not require a high maintenance and can hold styles effortlessly.

Damage: Normal hair is prone to less damage

High Porosity has tears and gaps around the cuticle which causes it to release moisture at a high rate, making it dry and brittle. High porosity hair absorbs water/ moisture too quickly, I recommend using thick/moisturising leave-ins, Pre-poo with Aloe Vera & Deep Condition with every wash which will give your hair extra moisture and seal the cuticle.

Damage: High porosity is more prone to damage as it can easily absorb the bad chemicals. The hair is never hydrated enough so frequent hydration is needed.


Porosity Test

The most common test is using a cup of room temperature water and a strand of hair.

Leave the strand on top of the cup,

  • if it stays on top you have low porosity.
  • if it sinks to the bottom you have high porosity,
  • its it stays in the middle then you have medium porosity

I didn’t want to just talk about the hair type chart as many people just focus on that instead of learning all about it. Structure, Density and Porosity are very important if you want to fully understand your hair type, the styles and products limitations. Next post i will be breaking down hair type chart.

Share this with anyone struggling with their hair, struggling with products and keeps buying new products.

Hair Density

Density

Hair Density vs. Hair Thickness – LUS Brands
credits: lusbrands.com

Density refers to how much hair you have on your scalp, the number of individual strands. You can have thin hair and have different density.

Thin: You can easily see the scalp, specially from the middle of the head and edges.

Medium: You can see partially the scalp, perhaps only on the middle of the hair but a small part.

Thick: it’s very hard to see the scalp of someone who has thick density.


Did you know?

The average person has approximately 2,200 strands of hair per square inch on their head ( crazy, right? ) The average person also sheds between 50 and 100 hairs per day so shedding is normal.

Ask away any questions related to hair density.


How can you figure out your density?

Structure

People often think structure refers to how the hair feels: rough, dry or oily. However, those are not hair structure. Hair Structure refers to the thickness and density of each individual strand of the hair.

credits: myhairdoctor.com

Each individual strand is formed of 2 or 3 layers. The cuticle, the cortex and the medulla. The ladder is the innermost layer of the hair shaft, the medulla is a soft/fragile, spongy mass of tissue. The cuticle is the most outward layer, it protects the inside of the hair shaft from damage. In between these two is the cortex which is made of long protein. The pigment that give your hair its natural colour is tucked among these protein strands. When you get split ends, it means you have worn the protective cuticle and since the cortex can’t repair itself you have to cut it.

There are 3 categories of hair structure:

credits: lusbrands.com

Fine hair:

Fine hair is the more fragile structure. The strands are thin and can easily break or damaged.

The structure of fine hair is by two layers: the cortex and cuticle.

Hair style: fine hair is light which makes it hard to achieve voluminous hair and hold a style. The right method can help achieve volume and style though it is hard to manipulate.


Medium Hair:

 The most versatile and the most common hair structure. Its strength is on medium and hair can be manipulated easily making it easy to hold styles and curls. The structured by two layers – the cortex and cuticle & may also contain the medulla. Medium hair can be more resistant to breaking.

Hair style: Medium hair is in between light and heavy making it easy to be manipulated and hold curls and styles.


Thick/Coarse hair:

Thick/Coarse Hair is strong as its compositions has all three layers – the cortex, cuticle and medulla. It has more protein than the other 2 texture types. It appears full not only on the scalp, but its body has a lot of volume. This hair texture can tolerate higher amounts of heat, strong chemicals like dye, relaxers, texturisers and resist breakage.

Hairstyle: thick hair is able to hold most hairstyles for longer period of time. Blow outs, silk press, dying the hair or hold curls, the styling options are endless. However, you should always test on a small area before proceeding to do the whole head.


Structure Test

To know your hair structure there is a simple way you can test it.

Simply take a hair strand from a brush or comb and line it next to a piece of thread.

  • If its thinner than the thread, then you have Fine hair.
  • If its the same size as the thread is then your hair structure is Medium hair
  • If the hair strand is thicker than the thread then you have Coarse/thick hair.

The beginners guide to your hair type

knowing your hair type will have you feeling stress free

Your hairstyles never come out exactly as the tutorial you watched? Probably the answer to the problem is figuring out your hair type and its components.

Learning your hair type is the very first step to finding the products that work for your hair and what methods you could use to achieve the different styles to have an effective hair regimen giving you all your hair goals.

Your hair consists of 3 different components: the texture, the structure and the porosity. These are crucial to know in order to have an effective hair regimen and it will also save your coin sis. No more buying products that do not work for us!


This looks simple, but when you have to actually look at your hair and figure out which one works for you, it ends up being harder than you thought as the hair chart puts you in individual hair type, however what do you do when you can spot more than one texture on your hair?

Once you learn your hair type, and all its components you will be understand what your natural hair is capable of doing, such as holding curls, creating volume or even having that body and more importantly what products you can use to achieve growth, retention or just a style.  These are necessary steps if you want to take better care for your hair.

Hair Type (briefly)

The 3 different curl types are types 2 which are wavy (loose curls), types 3 which are curly (defined loops) and types 4 which are coily & kinky (y tight and zigzag curls).

There are sub-sections to their which goes from A-C which shows how elongated the curls are. Before I explain hair type is important to know the Structure, Density and Porosity of hair as all these 3 makes up your hair, not just the type. I believe the components are frequently overlooked or just skipped completely. But these are even more important than knowing your hair type.


Next few post I will be breaking down hair type chart by Structure, Density and Porosity.

Share this with anyone struggling with their hair, struggling with products and keeps buying new products.


5 reasons to return natural

5 reasons to return natural

“WE DON’T GO NATURAL, WE RETURN ! “

Have you been thinking about going natural? You tired of burnt scalps due to relaxers? Or Are you just feeling overwhelmed by your hair?

Being a naturalista has its ups and downs, but it’s the best decision I had ever made for my hair and I’m going to share why it’s the best decision for your hair too.

Personally, I had no choice but to go natural, relaxers made my hair lifeless and within 2 years my hair went from waist length to above the shoulder, it was shedding, and I was losing hair despite taking care of it. The year was 2012 when my sister instilled in me that my hair would not grow unless I cut it. 

That was the best decision for my hair and my hair has been flourishing ever since. Learning about my hair, trying different styles, different products, different methods – its all part of a beautiful journey. You don’t need to do a big chop in order to be natural, you can transition whilst doing protecting styles.


Nappy is not a bad word


Being natural is an investment in yourself, and here are a few of the many reasons why this investment is worth it:

1.    Freedom

Being natural gives you a sense of freedom and you know if you a natural, when you outside or in a meeting you feel free, with relaxed hair I feel like you always check to ensure it’s combed and seamless where as with your natural hair you let it do what it wants. There aren’t any limits with natural hair, and you’ll have a sense of liberty that will show in all aspects of your life. You will feel freer, more confident, more certain in what you want !


2.    Healthier Hair

There is really no explanation needed right, I mean it’s not like your hair is free of chemicals or anything.  But your hair will be healthier because you can wash it more often, you will be combing it less which leads to less breakage. It will be free from scalp burns or glue which will feel liberating as your hair in its natural form is beautiful.


” Invest in your hair, its the crown you never take off “


3.    Hairstyle versatility

Often people think becoming natural the only hairstyle you can do is rock your natural afro or rock “ugly” hairstyles but you have access to thousands ( yes girl, thousands ) of hairstyles. There’s no end to the combinations you can do with your natural hair:

•    Flexi-rods

•    blowout / straighten

•    different updos

•    high/low puff

o    protective styles such as

•    braids

•    twists

•    cornrows/flat twists

but it does not stop there. You could add extensions, weave, install wigs, or even do crochet hairstyles – you could also do a mix and match where you could leave half your hair and mix with the extensions or weave. Either way, the options are endless and there is a hairstyle for any event

I recommend you just playing with your hair, and don’t judge a hairstyle until you try it.

Know that everyone has different hair types and what may work for someone may not work for you, but you can find the beauty in the hairstyle you created.


4.    Being part of a Community

The natural hair community is very friendly and welcoming, hence when you decide to become natural there are several groups on Facebook, WhatsApp groups, and chat forums you could join to answer all your hair dilemmas or just for a sense of community.

If you are into black history – the history of our black afro, then you will feel a more sense to self, you’d feel as you are contributing to the history of Black People. You will feel proud.


” there is nothing more powerful than a black woman rocking her natural hair”


5.     Confidence

Although the #naturalhairmovement is very big right now, rocking your natural hair will still set you apart from the society’s standards of beauty or definition of “good” hair. People will look as it’s something different, random people will compliment how nice your hair smell, how it looks and fellow naturalistas might also give you a lil boost. It will also give you a sense of pride when you’re asked “is that your real hair“.

Natural hair makes you look more youthful, and certain hairstyles will make you look like a teenager, just embrace it, sis ! Sometimes some hairstyles make me look like I never left the age of 17.  I see it as we have the option to look grown or young from just a hairstyle and that is versatility.


For all the reasons I mentioned before, being natural will have you feeling EMPOWERED, PROUD & A QUEEN and this will start influencing your decision making wanting to support black-owned business, not allowing people to step on you and also other aspects of your life.

Let’s start a discussion in the comments, let me know if there are any benefits i missed out or any doubts you having, let’s all engage !! Share this with friends and anyone you think would benefit from this !!

Disclaimer: When it comes to your hair, only you have power over it. Anything you do make sure it’s your own decision and not someone influencing you. Being natural is a commitment and only do it if you want