Scalp Types

Scalp Types

Hola Queens, how is the week going for y’all ? My week has been interesting to say the least, the July Self Care challenge has really been a challenge for me. Who knew meditating would be so difficult? Anyways, I hope the challenge is going better for you than hows been for me.

As I am doing my beginner series, my next topic is cleansing your hair aka shampoos. I realise you cannot use any shampoo without understanding your scalp type. It is not spoken of enough, but knowing your scalp type is as beneficial as knowing your porosity type.

Growing up I would always hear that “the condition of your hair is a reflection of the state of your scalp” & I overlooked this for several years. I would use shampoos that would make my scalp dry & my solution was to replenish my hair with plenty oils. My scalp would be flaky & have scabs from years of burn scalp due to relaxers and I never took the time to repair my scalp – I only focused on ensuring my hair was healthy. This explains why my scalp was always dry, my hair would be brittle which lead to excessive dandruff. Taking proper care of your scalp is a MUST !

Let’s get to it.

Sebum production is natural and very important as it adds strength, moisture and lustre to the tresses. Your scalp type could change overtime and the factors to that could be:

  • Genetics
  • Diet – Health & Lifestyle, Water Consumption
  • Health Problem
  • Blood Circulation
  • Stress
  • Hormonal Change
  • Alcohol & Drug use

What are the different Scalp Types ?

  • Dry

Keywords: dehydrated, frizzy, dull hair , flakes & scabs on the scalp, itchy

Dry scalp comes from a lack of natural moisture, sebum is not producing as regular due to chemicals, damage to the scalp or even excess exposure to pollution. Replenishing your scalp hydration is imperative as the lack of it can cause skin to dry out and create flakes. My scalp is dry & that is why it loves grease so much.

  • Normal

Keywords : manageable, shiny, supple, balacend ph levels,

Normal scalp is the healthiest & it is quite easy to manage the hair, it is not overly dry or oily and can style easily with least amount of products. Normal scalp types can get a little dryer than usual in the winter & a little oilier than usual in the summer, but nothing too crazy

  • Oily –

Key words : greasy, limp, lank, pimples on forehead, oiled scalp

Oily hair usually means that the sebaceous glands are overactive & product excess sebum which leads to excess oil just sitting on top of your scalp, dirty hair quicker & pimples on your forehead.

  • Combination – dry ends & oily roots

Keywords : dry ends, oily roots, split ends,

Combination scalp type can be one of the hardest to deal with. There is over produced oil on the scalp that gets blocked at the root leaving ends dry which leads to split ends and easy breakage. Your hair can be oily on some days, and dry on other days and it could have a combination of oily but rough – How is that possible?

You can find out what your scalp type is by the way your scalp behaves on day 2/3 after wash day. Pay close attention as it will tell you if your scalp over produces sebum or it does not produce enough.

See you on my next post where we will be looking at the importance of knowing or being aware of your scalp type. Hope you guys like this post.

Question : Do you know your scalp type? & do you buy products to cater to your scalp?

Adios Queens ❤

Ultimate Prepoo Recipe

Hola Queens,

I don’t know about you, but I need to plan my wash day from beginning to end at least a day before my wash day otherwise I feel conflicted and end up doing everything last minute and end up forgetting something. Due to the Self-Care July challenge (if you do not know what i am talking about and want to take part click here) I have been thinking what could I add to my Pre-poo that would better? Oil ! A great prepoo seems to always involve oil, it seems to be every naturalista’s answer when they face the question of their favourite prepoo.

As i mentioned on my last post, Aloe Vera + Fenugreek Seeds is my favourite prepoo & it never fails me for a moisture, strength, shine pick up.

The video is for demonstration purpose only. It’s how I do my usual Prepoo.

Head to my instagram @thelenalogy

Hot Oil Treatment is amazing, and every hair needs it here and there. Curly and Coily hair is naturally dry AF & we need anything that will give our tresses long last moisture, isn’t it? Plus everyone has at least one type of oil at home which makes this super practical.

Benefits:

  • Strengths Hair
  • Adds Shine & luster
  • Reduces Breakage/ Damage
  • Less Split Ends
  • Promotes Growth
  • Reduces Dryness

What you need

  • Aloe Vera Leaf
  • Fenugreek Seeds
  • Water
  • Spray Bottle
  • Oil of choice – I used a mix of JBCO & Olive Oil
  • Aloe Vera Juice (optional)

You can use one oil or a mixture of your favourite oils.

Preparation

  1. Mix the fenugreek seeds, aloe vera juice & water in a spray bottle
  2. Leave the mixture to infuse for minimum 2 hours. I recommend leaving it for 6 hours.
  3. The fenugreek seeds will have sprouted.
  4. Warm up your oil/oils with warm water underneath.
  5. Cut the small spines out and cut the Aloe Vera in half and into smaller pieces (as shown in the picture above)
  6. Section your hair between 4-8 parts. I recommend 6 parts+ as it ensures every strand is coated.
  7. Apply the spray from roots to ends & detangle
  8. Apply the Aloe Vera from roots to ends concentrating in the roots and ends ( these need extra love)
  9. Apply the Oil from roots to ends concentrating on your ends
  10. Twist the section & proceed to the next
  11. Apply the Aloe Vera all over the scalp once you finished twisting all sections
  12. Apply plastic cap & allow the mixture to sit on your hair for minimum 30 minutes.

I left the prepoo for about 2 hours and I took it out, my hair feels and looks amazing. This will definitely be a prepoo for when I am feeling a little fancy because it does take longer to make and its an extra step but its worth it. Hair is feeling very hydrated & moisturised ain’t even it sis. My hair above that.

The curls were popping.

Next time I do this prepoo I will make sure to take some pictures and include it. I have none of that day only videos during. But you can see the level of moisture my hair has. I’m in love,

Thank you for reading this post.

Question : What is your favourite oil for your hair & why?

Say Goodbye to Dry Hair with these 2 Prepoo Recipes

Hola Queens,

After the last 2 post on what is prepoo and how to prepoo , its only right I share my top Pre-poo recipes. There are many reasons why you should prepoo but only you know your current hair struggles, but I guarantee there is a prepoo recipe that will contribute to solving your problem out. Some of the Benefits of Prepoo include:

  • Hydration & Moisture Retention
  • Boost Conditioner Benefits
  • Strengthens hair
  • Easier to manage and detangle
  • Reduce breakage & shedding
  • Protects the hair from Shampoo by reducing the pH
  • Save Time & Water

In this Post I will share two of the prepoo mixtures that allowed my hair to retain extra moisture and leave me stress free during the week.

1. Hot Oil Mix

If your hair is in need of deep moisture penetration, the most effective way to prepoo will be by using Oils. Oils stick to the hair cuticle making it harder to wash away and it repairs hair from dryness, breakage and chemical/heat damage. Different oils have different benefits such as Growth, Strength Or Shine. You can use only one oil if that oil works best for your hair. I have used Jamaican Black Castor Oil (JBCO) , Olive oil or Aloe Vera Oil and I recommend them for prepoo as it will leave your hair feeling nourished.

But I am extra, and I want my hair to be extra also so I do a mixture of oils – if you gonna go through the trouble of doing a hot oil it might as well be a mixture. This is a oil combination I recommend as a Prepoo:

Holy Grail Mix – when you try this you will know why its the holy grail.

Moisture on Beast Mode Mix

  • Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • Black Seed Oil
  • Hemp Seed Oil
  • Avocado Oil

Simple but Mighty Mix

  • Aloe Vera Oil
  • Jamaican/Haitian Black Castor Oil
Preparation
  1. Boil some water and put that water on a big bowl.
  2. In a separate bowl put your mixture of oils
  3. Put the oil bowl on top of the bowl with water for it to melt ( using the bain-marie method)
  4. Add your mixture into a applicator bottle and Prepoo away (you can find detailed post on how to maximise your prepoo here)
  5. Remember to allow minimum 30 minutes for the mixture to penetrate your hair shafts
  6. When removing the prepoo, shampoo twice to ensure hair is clean and grease free.

Note : For the measurements, I leave it up to you – only you know what oils your hair loves most. But for reference the order I wrote the ingredients is from biggest to smallest – so for instance in the first mix I put more olive oil than I’d put JBCO.

Aloe Vera Leaf + Fenugreek Seeds Prepoo

This is my go-to Prepoo recipe. I cannot even express how much I love this recipe. It is foolproof and you see results instantly I feel like. There isn’t a better combination when it comes to Prepoo, specially if you want to keep it all natural.

Aloe Vera is the real goat in this mixture as its good for literally anything. Benefits of Aloe Vera:

  • Promotes Hair Growth
  • Increases Moisture
  • Promotes Softer + Shinier Hair
  • Natural Conditioner
  • Rejuvenates hair by strengthening & repairing
  • Prevents Itchy Scalp
  • Reduces Inflammation & Dandruff
  • Increases elasticity & prevents breakage

Fenugreek Seeds is an amazing hidden not-so-hidden secret from India. It has many benefits for the body & hair. These include:

  • Restores Luster
  • Hair Growth
  • Reduce dandruff & scalp irritation

These two ingredients together are like meant to be and that is why you need to try this prepoo.

Recipe

  • 2 tablespoons of fenugreek seeds
  • 1/2 cup Aloe Vera Juice (Optional)
  • 1/2 cup Water
  • Aloe Vera Leaf

Note: use 1 cup of water if you do not have aloe vera juice.

Preparation

  1. Mix the fenugreek seeds, aloe vera juice & water in a spray bottle
  2. Leave the mixture to infuse for minimum 2 hours. I recommend leaving it for 6 hours.
  3. The fenugreek seeds will have sprouted.
  4. Cut the small spines out and cut the Aloe Vera in half and into smaller pieces (as shown in the picture above)
  5. Section your hair between 4-8 parts. I recommend 6 parts+ as it ensures every strand is coated.
  6. Apply the spray from roots to ends & detangle
  7. Apply the Aloe Vera from roots to ends concentrating in the roots and ends ( these need extra love)
  8. Twist the section & proceed to the next
  9. Apply the Aloe Vera all over the scalp once you finished twisting all sections
  10. Apply plastic cap & allow the mixture to sit on your hair for minimum 30 minutes.

These are the two prepoo recipes that I know have worked for my hair, try it and share the results with me. I would love to know how you found it.

Let me know if you’d like to see a demonstration of how to apply these for the ultimate moisture retention !

Adios Queens ❤

Day 1: Setting goals for natural hair

Hola Queens,

For day one of the #selfcarechallenge created by me, we need to set up a hair goal, I’m sure you already have your own hair goals but this should be a short-term that fits into your long-term goal.

There are many factors that play into successful goals and how to set and reach them. I recommend breaking the Month of July into 5 weeks and set your hair regimen for each week and ensuring you do something to contribute to your hair goals. For example if you want your hair to grow that means your ultimate goal is Long Hair, to achieve that you should set short terms goals such as keeping protective styles and low manipulations styles for 1-2 weeks and just moisturising it. Low manipulations hairstyles can take a long time and it requires patience but you can do it.

If you have a goal of reducing shedding perhaps you could commit 4 weeks to a method and see if it works, you could try Tea Rinses and Rice Water and see if the shedding is reduced.

For this month I want to create DIY hair mask for every wash day, I deep condition every time I wash my hair as I find it works best for my hair otherwise my hair is super dry and rough. I will post about the mask I’ll do. I usually alternate between a nourishing mask, moisturising and strengthening mask. My ultimate goal is healthy hair & growth , and my hair is the healthiest when is nourished from inside out. Proper Hydration is imperative for hair growth and length retention.

Let me know what your hair goal for the month is, remember to keep it realistic and do not put too much pressure on yourself. I recommend getting a journal where you can document your journey – your frustrations, your small achievements and products who work and do not work .

Remember to tag me in any of your selfies or #selfcarechallenge check using @thelenalogy on instagram.

Let’s all work together and motivate each other.

July Self-Care Challenge

Hola Queens,

I created a 31 day Plan & decided to share it with you so we can all healthier and happier. The challenge is for the whole month of July, and I would love for you to tag me on instagram @thelenalogy when completing the daily tasks.

You can follow this whenever and start whenever you want, or you could add certain thing to your daily list. The main point of this if for you to be in a better place mentally, physically and obvs have a better skin and healthier hair.

I’ll be posting a few checks back in with you guys. Lets grow and see the improvement by the end of the month.

Do not forget to @ me on instagram and lets stay connected sis !!

How to Pre-poo

Holaa Queens

By now we all know what Pre-poo is, but how do you incorporate it into your wash day? How do I create it and what am I supposed to do? Don’t worry, I got you covered sis .

How to Pre-Poo

You will start with dry hair, and you will separate your hair into 4-8 parts – I have thick hair and the front part of my hair has to be divided into 2 ( adjust the parting to your hair thickness & whats manageable to you). Going section by section you will apply your Pre-poo concoctions to your hair and use a wide tooth comb or your fingers to detangle & you going to make sure its well coated and twist that section of your hair.

You can leave the mixture for as long as you would like, but I recommend minimum 30 minutes to allow the nutrients to penetrate through the hair shaft. I also recommend using a plastic cap to trap the moisture in or use a hooded dryer.

Ways to Pre-Poo

Overnight

Easily the best way to Pre-poo is overnight as it allows the hair to thoroughly absorb the nutrients and active properties of the conditioning method.

You can apply the mixture to the hair and twist, braid or bantu knot the hair to retain the moisture and keep hair from matting up, and put a plastic cap and tie it down with a scarf to ensure the plastic cap does not come out during sleep.

If you choose to do an Oil Pre-poo, I highly recommend using a plastic bag as you can tie it down to ensure it wont come out at night – the last thing you want is your your pillowcase and pillow to get stained ( I’ve been there too many times)

Hooded Dryer

This is the fastest way to ensure your hair is absorbing all the nutrients in a short amount of time, you really only need 15-30 minutes. Heat allows the hair shaft to open up for easy penetration, improved moisture retention, it improves elasticity which reduces breakage and leaves hair extra smooth.

I recommend this for low porosity as heat allows the cuticle layers to open and lift and ensure the strands are nourished from within

Plastic Cap/plastic bag

This is the most practical way as it just requires a plastic cap. If you do not like overnight mask then I recommend doing this in the morning, to allow time for the Pre-poo to penetrate the hair.

Do not think that you have to sit there whilst Pre-Pooing, you could still get things done sis. Jazz up your look by wearing a turban/ head wrap on top of the plastic cap and running your errands – nobody will notice you have a plastic cap underneath & you will receive many compliments and looks. Yesss, Slay sis !

I recommend going on a walk, or even the gym or just working out at home as it will make your blood flow to the head and it will make your scalp increase temperature for faster absorption

I hope this post has helped you understand how you can Pre-Poo and make the most out of it. Please try a Pre-poo method, as it will change your life and you will never look back.

Have a good week Queen

What is Pre-poo?

Hey Queens,

Does shampoo make your hair dry and rough? Do you have to use a lot more conditioner to soften and detangle your hair from the harsh shampoo? Well, meet Pre-poo. Pre-poo will save your strands, save your coin, will save you time, will save water – It’s the best thing since sliced bread !

What is Pre-Poo?

Pre-poo is a conditioning treatment before your shampoo, hence the name comes from Pre-Shampoo. Shampoo’s are harsh and even moisturising shampoo can strip moisture and natural oils leaving the hair in its most vulnerable state, if you do not use a good conditioner/deep conditioner it may lead your hair to breakage, shedding and dry/ brittle hair. If your hair is naturally dry and brittle I recommend doing Pre-Poo every time you wash your hair.

Pre-poo acts like a protective layer by moisturising the hair before the shampoo, it allows the shampoo to cleanse the hair but it does not leave the hair weak and vulnerable.

What is the benefits of Pre-Poo?

Moisture Retention

Curls and Kinks need to stay moisturised, specially if you have High Porosity Hair or Thick/Coarse hair. Pre-poo adds extra moisture to the locks ensuring their stay moisturised through the whole wash day process. Pre-poo can also restore lost moisture during the week or due to damage such as bleaching, dye or heat.

Easy Detangle

By Applying Pre-Poo, it will allow your strands to soften making it easier to detangle. I find it easier to detangle as I am applying the Pre-poo as my hair is softer and causes less breakage as opposed to detangling after shampoo when your hair is sensitive and prone to tangles and knots.

Softer & Healthier Strands

Since I started Pre-poo, my 4C, thick, high porosity hair has been softer than ever. My hair has been looking the healthiest ever. There’s a natural shine with my hair, my hair is retaining moisture much better and I find myself not needing to moisture as much during the week. My scalp used to be flaky after a few days of washing and after Pre-pooing 3 times I have not experienced flaky scalp.

I have noticed that my dyed brown ends have been more vibrant not as opposed to a month ago where they were dull and my ends were very dry.

Boosts the Conditioner

Do you finish your conditioner faster than your shampoo? By Pre-pooing, your has already been detangled and moisturised therefore you would not need to use as much conditioner as you usually do. I usually wash my hair in twists and that really helps the moisture to stay in. Let’s be real, a good conditioner is ££ and if I can save that coin sis, I will.

Also, often times we use the conditioner as we want to retain all the benefits, pre-pooing actually helps boost the effectiveness of the conditioner your using leaving your strands even softer and stronger than before.

Saving Time & Water

We keep it real in this blog, I used to spend almost 2 hours getting through all sections of my hair, and the water bill would add up sis, by Pre-Pooing, I spend about 20 minutes washing my hair resulting in wasting less water and having more time to spend doing whatever you’d like.

How did you find this post?

Next post I’ll be talking about different methods of Pre-poo and my Ultimate Pre-poo process that never fails me.

See you soon Queens ❤ !

Is having a hair schedule/regimen important?

Hey Queens,

As I was preparing my wash day, I realised how much more healthier my hair is, compared to 2 months ago. And as much as I would like to say that before I was not taking care of my hair that would be a lie. I was taking care of my hair, but I did not have a regimen, I had a routine, it was the same every wash day. And that is not an effective regimen.

Why not you ask?

Well, your hair needs hydration, nutrition, protein, and you need to do these mask at least once every 4-6 weeks depending of what your hair needs and if you hair is damaged. I was not doing that, I was using the same deep hydration mask – every week. The mask worked for me, and as my hair was dry, I instantly assumed thats all my hair needs. You need to have a balance of hydration, nutrition and protein in your regimen. For me it means that when I am scheduling my week I am also adding which deep treatment I am doing that week so I am not overloading my hair with just one type of treatment

You might think that a “Hair Regimen” is overhyped by hairdressers and naturalistas. You might think that it is too much work and time consuming. I used to think that, and chances are you already spend time doing your hair, why not invest it into achieving your hair goals. I guarantee you the time you will spend wont be as much as you making it in your head. Not having an effective hair regimen, only hurts you.

Why is a hair regimen necessary?

Yes, it’s imperative to have a hair regimen. Here are 5 reasons why its a must.

  1. Your hair will thrive – your hair will be shinier, moisturised and stronger.
  2. You will be your own hair goals – you’ll have healthier longer hair
  3. Its more cost effective – when your hair is damaged, you are always trying new products and overspending on products you don’t need.
  4. Confidence Boost – you’ll find yourself checking your hair out at anything that reflects. You will want to rock your natural hair and ditch the wigs and hair extensions.
  5. Timesaving – creating a schedule will lead to being more organised. Before it would take me 2 hours to wash my hair, but now it only takes me 30 minutes to wash my hair + my wash days would be 2 days long as opposed to 1 day now. Leaving time to do things I enjoy.
  6. Self-Care Queen – when you start seeing results, it will motivate you to have effective regimen when it comes to your skin, your body or even a diet.

Do you have a hair regimen? If so what is a must for your regimen?

Thanks for reading & continue to rock your natural hair.

IS HAIR TYPE IMPORTANT ?

Heyy Queens,

Often times when I speak to someone about natural hair or I get questions, people are either confused about their hair type or the only thing they know about their hair is what type it is. . This post will help you find out your hair type and all you need to know about achieving your hair goals once and for all.

What is Hair Type?

Hair Type is a system where you can identify your curl type, its based on the diameter and tightness of the curl. It was created by Andre Walker known to be Oprah’s hairdresser, made to be easier to identify the curl pattern and how it behaves when it comes to styles, and products. Personally I think its a easier way to speak explain what curl pattern you have, specially if you have more than one curl type, by using the Hair type system ” I have 4C in the middle, and 4A in the back and 4B in the front and sides ” rather than ” its tight kinky curls in the middle, kinky curls with a little frizz in the back, and frizzy zigzag coils in the front and sides” although you can understand it, its harder to visualise it.

Andre Walker Hair Typing System
LOIS Hair Typing System

There are 3 curly hair types which are 2(wavy), 3(curly) and 4(coil/kinky). Under those categories, there are sub-categories which range from A to C which refer to how tight the curls pattern is – A being looser than C.

I prefer the LOIS Hair Types which came after the Andre Walker Hair Typing Chart and focuses on curly hair types making it easier identify curl types by also volume and frizz.

Is knowing your hair type important?

Important? No! The Purpose of hair typing is to make it easier to identify products and methods that would work for the hair in order to make it easier for each category to achieve their hair goals – but its not its true reflection. However, it does make it easier in conversation and when speaking about the curl type. Although it is good to know your curl pattern, it doesn’t tell you much other than what it actually is, the type of curl you have.

What is Important ?

Hair type tells you nothing about how to manage your hair, if you want to know such information I recommend you to learning about Hair Structure, Density and Most importantly Hair Porosity. These will ultimately tell you what exactly works for you hair and what to stay away from.

Bottom Line

The journey to effective communicating with your hair, and knowing what it needs its not easy at all. Too many people focus on hair type and still struggle with their hair, because how porous your hair is has nothing to do with hair type but it will tell you what products work for your hair.

You want healthier, longer hair with beautiful bouncy, defined curls or a lot of volume on your hair, learning about Porosity and Structure will lead you to products but even then you will still have to experiment with products and methods to find those that work the best for your hair. It is a tedious task but don’t give up. and sort to easier ways. It took me long to know what my hair needed and the products it likes, but I figured it out and so can you.

If you need any help, you can contact me on instagram @thelenalogy and I can help you with your hair dilemmas.

Beginners Guide To Hair Porosity

Porosity

Porosity is your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. I never understood porosity as all the tests left me as confused as I started. I see it being discussed more often than before and it’s important to know how porous your hair is as it can help knowing methods that would work for your hair and what kind of products you should be using on your hair.

 There are 3 types of porosity low, medium and high.

Low Porosity means your hair does not absorb moisture easily, and the cuticle of the hair closes faster. This because the cuticle lays flat causing it to block any moisture from being absorbed. Products just end up sitting on top of the hair and creating build-up.

I recommend when washing the hair do not use cold water as it will close the cuticle, instead rinse with hot water and apply products while the hair is still damp to ensure the hair can absorb it.

Medium Porosity means the hair is well-balanced and the pores operated “normally”, it’s the ideal porosity type as its not in either end of the spectrum. It takes the correct amount of moisture. It does not require a high maintenance and can hold styles effortlessly.

Damage: Normal hair is prone to less damage

High Porosity has tears and gaps around the cuticle which causes it to release moisture at a high rate, making it dry and brittle. High porosity hair absorbs water/ moisture too quickly, I recommend using thick/moisturising leave-ins, Pre-poo with Aloe Vera & Deep Condition with every wash which will give your hair extra moisture and seal the cuticle.

Damage: High porosity is more prone to damage as it can easily absorb the bad chemicals. The hair is never hydrated enough so frequent hydration is needed.


Porosity Test

The most common test is using a cup of room temperature water and a strand of hair.

Leave the strand on top of the cup,

  • if it stays on top you have low porosity.
  • if it sinks to the bottom you have high porosity,
  • its it stays in the middle then you have medium porosity

I didn’t want to just talk about the hair type chart as many people just focus on that instead of learning all about it. Structure, Density and Porosity are very important if you want to fully understand your hair type, the styles and products limitations. Next post i will be breaking down hair type chart.

Share this with anyone struggling with their hair, struggling with products and keeps buying new products.