Cleansing your hair

Hola Queens,

In the next few post we will be exploring the topic of cleansing your hair, I will be addressing some of your concerns when it comes to properly cleansing your hair.

Why should you cleanse your hair?

On my last post I’ve mention that our skin produces sebum & depending on a few of the factors your scalp can be dry, oily, normal or combination.

The more time you spend without washing your hair, the more sebum will have accumulated on your scalp and start spreading to your hair. That combined with the product build-up such as creams, oils, edge control, gels + going outside your hair will be dirty, greasy & smelling bad (Thanks to these fruit smelling conditioners my hair never smells bad, it would just have an off smell). You will need to cleanse your hair!

When you have not washed your hair for so long, in order for the products to efficiently work you’d need to have a clean hair to allow the product to work at his best.

Also, your hair needs water & most people only put water on their hair when they are washing their hair. Water is important for the scalp, for everything really.

How can you cleanse your hair efficiently?

Shampoo

The most accessible and common way to wash your hair. Shampoos clean by stripping all dirt, oils, build up from hair even natural oils. There are different types of shampoo to tackle different scalp/hair needs:

  • Dandruff control
  • Strengthening
  • Clarifying
  • Moisturising
  • Oil Control
  • Coloured Hair
  • Ph Balanced

Co-Wash

Term used very often in the natural hair community, it means that you are a using a conditioner to cleanse your hair. Conditioners nourishes & moisturises the hair. It’s a less harsh than a conditioner & I would opt for this if you wash your hair several times a week.

Clarifying Rinse

Using Apple Cider Vinegar to clarify your hair. Your scalp will feel squeaky clean and fresh. Any type of clarifying method should be use sparingly, I recommend every 4-6 weeks.

Clay Wash

Using clay to cleanse your hair. I will make a separate post about this & my experience with it.

How often should you wash your hair?

You can cleanse whenever you want, only you know how your hair is and feels and know what feels best for your hair. The texture of your hair + scalp type will tell you how often you will prefer to wash your hair. I do not recommend washing your hair everyday as your scalp natural oils are good for your hair & depending on your method of cleansing it can be too strong and strip the natural oil and cause breakage.

For years I have been saying that washing my hair is an event & I cannot remember if I ever washed my hair more than once a week – it’s very time & water consuming. But also it works for my hair, my dry scalp needs the natural oils & sebum + I have high porosity which my hair absorbs the products.

Thank your for reading this post, if you have any questions comment down below

Adios Queen ❤

Why is important to know your scalp type?

Hola Queens,

On my last post we went through the scalp types and their characteristics. But how do we properly take care of our scalp type? There are 3 main reasons why it is important to know your scalp type:

  1. What shampoo to use

Do you ever get confused on which shampoo to buy, not knowing if you need a strengthening or moisturising shampoo ? Or have you ever notice how some shampoos can make your hair so stiff & hard to manage? Well, buying the wrong shampoo can be costly to the scalp & could be making your hair problem even worse. Here’s what I recommend for the different scalp types:

  • Oily scalp – an oil control shampoo could make the total difference for this hair type. Use a clarifying shampoo & Apple Cider Vinegar rinse once a month is necessary for this hair type. Make sure to use conditioner only on your hair and not on your scalp.
  • Dry scalp – a gentle, hydrating shampoo free of Sulfate & Parabens is your best friend. Infuse some oil into your shampoo to make it more moisturising. Co-washing might be your best friend. I opt for a moisturising shampoo instead of co-washing – I need my scalp to be completely cleannnn !
  • Combination – oil & product build up could irritate your scalp, so oil control shampoo such as a clarifying shampoo which also soothes is your best bet.
  • Normal Scalp – you can get away with everything. I would recommend switching shampoos every now and then & go for Ph balanced shampoos

It is important to read the label of shampoos to know the ingredients. Ensuring there are no parabens or sulfate as an ingredient of the shampoo.

2. Products your scalp & hair like

Knowing which products your scalp can handle such as oils & scalp moisturising or strength.

Jamaican Black Castor Oil is very thick and dry types would appreciate whereas Jojoba oil is very light, and normal scalp types could benefit from it. Oily types could also benefit from it but I would recommend a butter mix rather than just oils. Knowing which oils works for your hair & your scalp is as important as knowing which ones to stay away from.

I have dry scalp hence why I oil my scalp every other day & I moisturise my hair scalp with leave in other days

3. Lifestyle awareness

I’m sure you have heard people saying ” I drunk a lot of water water & my hair grew ” or ” i’ve made change to my diet & my hair has been thriving” & you probably thought ” yeah right “. I don’t necessarily think its just them being healthy or a change of diet or drinking more water alone. Implementing a good nutrition & lifestyle + a good hair regimen will have your hair & scalp thriving.

I have always heard for dry scalp I should drink water – girrrrllll, I have been drinking 2 litres of water everyday for the past 8-10 years& nothing had changed so I had to change my diet, & whenever I have a healthy diet – I can see changes to my skin, nails, hair & my scalp.

What health approach should you have for your scalp types:?

Oily Scalp – Reduce the amount of processed foods you eat, and maintain a healthy diet low in sugars and carbohydrate.

Dry Scalp – Ensure you are drinking enough water & maintaining a healthy diet. Exercise often.

Normal Scalp – What you are doing is working, I advise you to continue doing what you doing.

Conclusion

Understanding your scalp & hair needs, will help you get the best out of your hair regimen, out of your products and your coin. Hair care is not only the products that you put in your hair. But your overall lifestyle & dietary choices can affect your hair & be working against your hair goals.

Thank you for reaching the end of this post Queens. I have a few questions for you all:

  • Do you massage your scalp regularly?
  • Would you like me to recommend shampoos for each scalp type?
  • Do use more fresh produce on your hair or do your eat it ??

Adios Queens ❤

Day 1: Setting goals for natural hair

Hola Queens,

For day one of the #selfcarechallenge created by me, we need to set up a hair goal, I’m sure you already have your own hair goals but this should be a short-term that fits into your long-term goal.

There are many factors that play into successful goals and how to set and reach them. I recommend breaking the Month of July into 5 weeks and set your hair regimen for each week and ensuring you do something to contribute to your hair goals. For example if you want your hair to grow that means your ultimate goal is Long Hair, to achieve that you should set short terms goals such as keeping protective styles and low manipulations styles for 1-2 weeks and just moisturising it. Low manipulations hairstyles can take a long time and it requires patience but you can do it.

If you have a goal of reducing shedding perhaps you could commit 4 weeks to a method and see if it works, you could try Tea Rinses and Rice Water and see if the shedding is reduced.

For this month I want to create DIY hair mask for every wash day, I deep condition every time I wash my hair as I find it works best for my hair otherwise my hair is super dry and rough. I will post about the mask I’ll do. I usually alternate between a nourishing mask, moisturising and strengthening mask. My ultimate goal is healthy hair & growth , and my hair is the healthiest when is nourished from inside out. Proper Hydration is imperative for hair growth and length retention.

Let me know what your hair goal for the month is, remember to keep it realistic and do not put too much pressure on yourself. I recommend getting a journal where you can document your journey – your frustrations, your small achievements and products who work and do not work .

Remember to tag me in any of your selfies or #selfcarechallenge check using @thelenalogy on instagram.

Let’s all work together and motivate each other.

IS HAIR TYPE IMPORTANT ?

Heyy Queens,

Often times when I speak to someone about natural hair or I get questions, people are either confused about their hair type or the only thing they know about their hair is what type it is. . This post will help you find out your hair type and all you need to know about achieving your hair goals once and for all.

What is Hair Type?

Hair Type is a system where you can identify your curl type, its based on the diameter and tightness of the curl. It was created by Andre Walker known to be Oprah’s hairdresser, made to be easier to identify the curl pattern and how it behaves when it comes to styles, and products. Personally I think its a easier way to speak explain what curl pattern you have, specially if you have more than one curl type, by using the Hair type system ” I have 4C in the middle, and 4A in the back and 4B in the front and sides ” rather than ” its tight kinky curls in the middle, kinky curls with a little frizz in the back, and frizzy zigzag coils in the front and sides” although you can understand it, its harder to visualise it.

Andre Walker Hair Typing System
LOIS Hair Typing System

There are 3 curly hair types which are 2(wavy), 3(curly) and 4(coil/kinky). Under those categories, there are sub-categories which range from A to C which refer to how tight the curls pattern is – A being looser than C.

I prefer the LOIS Hair Types which came after the Andre Walker Hair Typing Chart and focuses on curly hair types making it easier identify curl types by also volume and frizz.

Is knowing your hair type important?

Important? No! The Purpose of hair typing is to make it easier to identify products and methods that would work for the hair in order to make it easier for each category to achieve their hair goals – but its not its true reflection. However, it does make it easier in conversation and when speaking about the curl type. Although it is good to know your curl pattern, it doesn’t tell you much other than what it actually is, the type of curl you have.

What is Important ?

Hair type tells you nothing about how to manage your hair, if you want to know such information I recommend you to learning about Hair Structure, Density and Most importantly Hair Porosity. These will ultimately tell you what exactly works for you hair and what to stay away from.

Bottom Line

The journey to effective communicating with your hair, and knowing what it needs its not easy at all. Too many people focus on hair type and still struggle with their hair, because how porous your hair is has nothing to do with hair type but it will tell you what products work for your hair.

You want healthier, longer hair with beautiful bouncy, defined curls or a lot of volume on your hair, learning about Porosity and Structure will lead you to products but even then you will still have to experiment with products and methods to find those that work the best for your hair. It is a tedious task but don’t give up. and sort to easier ways. It took me long to know what my hair needed and the products it likes, but I figured it out and so can you.

If you need any help, you can contact me on instagram @thelenalogy and I can help you with your hair dilemmas.

5 reasons to return natural

5 reasons to return natural

“WE DON’T GO NATURAL, WE RETURN ! “

Have you been thinking about going natural? You tired of burnt scalps due to relaxers? Or Are you just feeling overwhelmed by your hair?

Being a naturalista has its ups and downs, but it’s the best decision I had ever made for my hair and I’m going to share why it’s the best decision for your hair too.

Personally, I had no choice but to go natural, relaxers made my hair lifeless and within 2 years my hair went from waist length to above the shoulder, it was shedding, and I was losing hair despite taking care of it. The year was 2012 when my sister instilled in me that my hair would not grow unless I cut it. 

That was the best decision for my hair and my hair has been flourishing ever since. Learning about my hair, trying different styles, different products, different methods – its all part of a beautiful journey. You don’t need to do a big chop in order to be natural, you can transition whilst doing protecting styles.


Nappy is not a bad word


Being natural is an investment in yourself, and here are a few of the many reasons why this investment is worth it:

1.    Freedom

Being natural gives you a sense of freedom and you know if you a natural, when you outside or in a meeting you feel free, with relaxed hair I feel like you always check to ensure it’s combed and seamless where as with your natural hair you let it do what it wants. There aren’t any limits with natural hair, and you’ll have a sense of liberty that will show in all aspects of your life. You will feel freer, more confident, more certain in what you want !


2.    Healthier Hair

There is really no explanation needed right, I mean it’s not like your hair is free of chemicals or anything.  But your hair will be healthier because you can wash it more often, you will be combing it less which leads to less breakage. It will be free from scalp burns or glue which will feel liberating as your hair in its natural form is beautiful.


” Invest in your hair, its the crown you never take off “


3.    Hairstyle versatility

Often people think becoming natural the only hairstyle you can do is rock your natural afro or rock “ugly” hairstyles but you have access to thousands ( yes girl, thousands ) of hairstyles. There’s no end to the combinations you can do with your natural hair:

•    Flexi-rods

•    blowout / straighten

•    different updos

•    high/low puff

o    protective styles such as

•    braids

•    twists

•    cornrows/flat twists

but it does not stop there. You could add extensions, weave, install wigs, or even do crochet hairstyles – you could also do a mix and match where you could leave half your hair and mix with the extensions or weave. Either way, the options are endless and there is a hairstyle for any event

I recommend you just playing with your hair, and don’t judge a hairstyle until you try it.

Know that everyone has different hair types and what may work for someone may not work for you, but you can find the beauty in the hairstyle you created.


4.    Being part of a Community

The natural hair community is very friendly and welcoming, hence when you decide to become natural there are several groups on Facebook, WhatsApp groups, and chat forums you could join to answer all your hair dilemmas or just for a sense of community.

If you are into black history – the history of our black afro, then you will feel a more sense to self, you’d feel as you are contributing to the history of Black People. You will feel proud.


” there is nothing more powerful than a black woman rocking her natural hair”


5.     Confidence

Although the #naturalhairmovement is very big right now, rocking your natural hair will still set you apart from the society’s standards of beauty or definition of “good” hair. People will look as it’s something different, random people will compliment how nice your hair smell, how it looks and fellow naturalistas might also give you a lil boost. It will also give you a sense of pride when you’re asked “is that your real hair“.

Natural hair makes you look more youthful, and certain hairstyles will make you look like a teenager, just embrace it, sis ! Sometimes some hairstyles make me look like I never left the age of 17.  I see it as we have the option to look grown or young from just a hairstyle and that is versatility.


For all the reasons I mentioned before, being natural will have you feeling EMPOWERED, PROUD & A QUEEN and this will start influencing your decision making wanting to support black-owned business, not allowing people to step on you and also other aspects of your life.

Let’s start a discussion in the comments, let me know if there are any benefits i missed out or any doubts you having, let’s all engage !! Share this with friends and anyone you think would benefit from this !!

Disclaimer: When it comes to your hair, only you have power over it. Anything you do make sure it’s your own decision and not someone influencing you. Being natural is a commitment and only do it if you want